Nine days, five stops, and 310km of mountain driving through the UNESCO Dolomites: Cortina d'Ampezzo, Lago di Braies, Val Gardena, and the Great Dolomites Road in a complete self-drive loop.
The Dolomites are among Europe's most dramatic landscapes: a UNESCO World Heritage Site of vertical rock spires, glacial lakes, and mountain passes that glow at dusk. This 9-day Dolomites road trip itinerary loops from Bolzano, the bilingual capital of South Tyrol, through the heart of the range. It follows the famous Grande Strada delle Dolomiti to Canazei and Cortina d'Ampezzo, then circles back via Lago di Braies and the alpine meadows of Val Gardena.
Total driving is around 310km across five legs. Distances are short; the mountain roads are not. Expect 55km to take nearly two hours over high passes. Allow time at the wheel and more time at the stops.
Best time: Mid-June to late September. High passes including Pordoi and Falzarego close under snow until at least early June and may close again in October. September brings stable weather, golden light, and far fewer visitors than July or August.
Driving: All roads on this route are paved. Expect narrow sections, hairpin bends, and steep gradients on the passes. Signs are bilingual in Italian and German across South Tyrol. A standard rental car is sufficient; no 4x4 is needed.
Budget: Mid-range. Cable car tickets and quality accommodation in ski towns add up. Budget around €150 to €250 per person per night including dinner.
Bolzano is an unusual Italian city: Gothic cathedral, covered medieval arcades, and the unmistakable overlay of a place that was Austrian until 1919. Its centrepiece is the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology on Via Museo, housing Ötzi the Iceman, a 5,300-year-old mummy recovered from a glacier near the Austrian border in 1991. Pre-book tickets; it sells out in summer.
Spend the afternoon walking the Talvera riverside promenade, browsing the fruit market in Piazza delle Erbe, or taking the Renon cable car up to the plateau for a first view of the Dolomite peaks to the east. The old town wine bars serve some of Italy's most respected Pinot Grigio and Gewürztraminer.
The drive east from Bolzano follows the SS241 into the Val d'Ega and past Lago di Carezza, a small turquoise lake that mirrors the jagged Latemar massif in near-perfect reflection. Stop here; it is one of the most striking roadside pull-offs in the Dolomites. The route then climbs over Passo di Costalunga (1,752m) and descends into the wide Fassa valley to Canazei.
Canazei sits at the junction of the Fassa and Contrin valleys, ringed by the Marmolada, Sella, and Langkofel groups. On the first day, take the Pordoi cable car from the top of Passo Pordoi (25 minutes above town) to the Sass Pordoi terrace at 2,950m. The panorama takes in Marmolada at 3,343m, the entire Sella massif, and the distant Tofane towers above Cortina. On the second day, drive the road to Lago Fedaia and the Marmolada glacier, or hire bikes in the valley.
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The drive from Canazei over Passo Pordoi (2,239m) and Passo Falzarego (2,105m) to Cortina is one of the finest mountain drives in Europe. Allow nearly two hours for 55km: the road demands attention, and the views along the Falzarego ridge deserve at least one long stop. The Rifugio Lagazuoi cable car from the Falzarego car park climbs to WWI tunnels carved by Italian alpine troops.
Cortina d'Ampezzo is Italy's most glamorous ski town, with a chic pedestrian centre and four distinct mountain groups visible from the main street. Out of ski season it runs at a pleasant pace, with good restaurants and a strong hiking network.
Dedicate one full day to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo circuit: the most iconic hike in the Dolomites. Drive the toll road to Rifugio Auronzo (around €30 per car), then walk the 10km loop around the three 2,900m spires. The circuit involves minimal elevation gain and takes 3-4 hours at a steady pace. Start before 8am to secure parking; the car park fills completely by mid-morning in summer. A second day covers the Cinque Torri cable car and WWI trench museum above the Falzarego valley.
Drive north from Cortina through the Pusteria valley on the SS49, then turn south on the Braies road. Lago di Braies earns its reputation: vivid turquoise water enclosed by near-vertical limestone walls, with a wooden boathouse and a few rowing boats for hire. It is the most-photographed lake in the Dolomites, and the afternoon crowds in summer explain why.
Staying overnight at the Grand Hotel Lago di Braies, or arriving before 9am, changes the experience entirely. The 1km shoreline path takes 30 minutes; walk it early with mist still on the water. In peak season (July and August) the lake road closes to non-hotel guests from mid-morning: check the latest access rules before planning your day.
The drive from Lago di Braies to Ortisei runs west through Bressanone (worth a brief stop for the cathedral cloister) and up the Val Gardena from Ponte Gardena: about 2 hours. The valley is Ladin-speaking, one of the small Romance minorities of the Eastern Alps, with a woodcarving tradition visible in every shop window in Ortisei.
Ortisei is the best base for two of the route's finest high-altitude days. The Seceda cable car climbs above 2,500m to a dramatic ridgeline, with the Fermeda Towers rising from open meadows and a sweeping view south across the Dolomites. Easy walking trails connect the cable car stations. The Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm), reachable by a second cable car or by car during permitted hours, is the largest alpine meadow in Europe at 1,850m: a broad, gently rolling plateau above the valley with the Langkofel and Plattkofel rising to the south.
On the second afternoon, drive the short detour to Val di Funes for the Santa Magdalena meadow panorama: a small Romanesque church in vivid green meadows with the grey Odle massif rising directly behind it.
The Seiser Alm road is restricted to private vehicles during peak summer hours. Use the Ortisei cable car or shuttle buses to avoid the restriction.
The A22 motorway from Ponte Gardena to Bolzano closes the loop in 40 minutes. A final morning allows one more walk through Piazza Walther, a visit to the covered market, or a last glass of Alto Adige wine before heading to Verona (2 hours), Innsbruck (1h45m), or Venice (2h30m). A toll applies on the A22.
Fuel: Top up in valley towns before the passes; there are no fuel stations on Pordoi or Falzarego.
Cable cars: Most operate late June to mid-October. Pre-booking is worthwhile for the Pordoi and Seceda cable cars in July and August.
Accommodation: Book 2-3 months ahead for July and August, particularly Lago di Braies and Cortina. September is easier.
Driving time: All five legs are under 2 hours. The route is slow because the roads demand it and the views deserve it.
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The full route — stops, maps, and driving times — is on Routebook by Kington.
A 9-day self-drive loop through the heart of the UNESCO-listed Italian Dolomites, taking in Cortina d'Ampezzo, the Great Dolomites Road, Lago di Braies, and the alpine meadows of Val Gardena.
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